Ballarat

Time to take Nick up on his recommendation of a few months ago for the best family day out in Victoria – Sovereign Hill. This is the site of the Victorian gold rush back in the 1850’s, but although we rush there a lot quicker than they could, by the time we’ve packed, cleaned up the mansion and driven 100kms it’s 3.30pm, which doesn’t give us time to do the place justice. We therefore check into a nearby 4 star motel and amazingly spot a sign for a Royal Tennis court. Surely this can’t be Real Tennis, my new passion, it’s probably just a Victorian name for squash or racquetball or something. No, sure enough we follow the signs and there, in all its splendour, is one of only 3 active Real Tennis clubs in Australia. The only others are in Hobart and Melbourne (2 courts) since the one at Sydney’s Macquairie University was scandalously turned into a basketball court. We are greeted by an 88-year-old amateur as the professional is out. He tells us that he started playing when the court was built by his son-in-law in 1987 aged 67 and is still going strong. The Pro returns and I can’t resist booking a court for 8pm – I know, another night out at Karen’s expense, but really what an amazing coincidence to literally stumble across one of only 4 courts in the country in the middle of Ballarat.

After a brisk walk to the monument to the first gold discovery and a stunning room-service dinner of blue-eyed cod, mash and asparagus, I return to the Real Tennis court to catch the last few games of a Pennant doubles before my match with a 30-handicapper anaesthetist. Despite being given a point a game and leading 6-3 4-1, I manage to draw due to a combined lack of fitness and concentration. Amazingly the Pro can still input the score onto the international database which will apparently slightly reduce my handicap in the UK due to my away from home disadvantage! Despite a couple of beers I lose 5lbs according to the motel’s scales and feel much better. I realise that I’ve been missing sport a lot and decide to try to play at all 3 clubs in Australia as, conveniently, our next stop is Tasmania followed by Melbourne. Karen very sweetly supports my plan despite it involving more babysitting for her.

The motel continues to over-perform with an excellent breakfast. I’m still not sure if cereal, yoghurt and fruit followed by a fry-up is more or less healthy than just the fry-up? We enjoy a great day at Sovereign Hill with the kids. First is the museum for a bit of an intro. followed by panning for real gold in the stream. We cheat and buy a small sack of sand that is guaranteed to contain some gold and possibly a decent sized nugget. We don’t get a nugget but do manage to find a few flakes that we keep in a small jar for posterity. We then watch a real 3Kg gold bar worth $110,000 being forged, followed by a trip into the mineshafts with the brave family (esp. Karen who is a bit claustrophobic). Just wandering around this reconstructed 1850’s town is fun as all the staff are in period costume including soldiers and even waitresses. We get a good view of the whole town from the top of the ‘Mulloch Heap’ and even visit the Chinese quarter on the way out (many Chinese came here in the 1870’s in search of their fortune but most were disappointed as most of the gold had gone by then and the taxes for panning had become punitive). It is interesting that because of gold Ballarat is still the largest non-coastal town in Australia. Also due to gold Melbourne became the largest city and financial centre for 100 years. The reality for the prospector however was backbreaking work, unwholesome food and primitive accommodation. No wonder many turned to hard liquor, which is why one smart Irishman made a killing at the goldfields by cornering the market for booze.