Over the Mountains to Melbourne

“It’s half the distance and much more beautiful” I say to Karen justifying our mountain route over the Snowies and through Mount Kosciuzko National Park to the Murray River. I neglect to mention that it will probably take twice as long in a clapped out Ford Fairlane, as Matt has assured me both ways take about 7 hours. The views are spectacular from the Alpine Way despite being misty, spooky and wet, with the temperature dropping from a balmy 25 to a chilly 12 degrees. We pass forests of spindly trees shrouded in gloom and other solitary behemoths scarred by the fires of 2002/2003. Past the highest habitation in Australia we creep and over massive dams to the Murray River Highway, where dead trees lie drowned in an eerie lake (no pun intended). Here we look to hire a houseboat but end up in a cheap motel in Wadonga. Definitely not so glamorous - we can’t even find a fish and chip shop in this hellhole. (Sorry Sharon, I know you were born here but really…) The only attraction is the paddle steamer in neighbouring Albury, which is closed for the low season (probably at least 11 months of the year if tourists have any sense).

All is not lost as we are only a scenic riverside drive away from the viticultural zenith of the Muscat grape – Rutherglen. Once away from the river the land becomes very brown and burnt and even the vines have scorched leaves. This is strange as it’s only 19 degrees, but apparently it has been well over 30 degrees until very recently. Our first ‘nectar’ stop is at All Saints with a mature tree-lined avenue leading up to a pretty ‘chateau’ style winery. Muscats and Tokays (actually Muscadelle) are classified as ordinary, classic, grand and rare and I try a ‘rare’ brace. The Muscat outclasses the Tokay with well-integrated spirit and grape juice and some impressive tertiary flavours of molasses and Christmas pudding. As I chat to the winemaker, Karen is less impressed with the children’s antics outside. We move swiftly on to Campbells. I’ve had the ordinary Muscat before (a case in fact!!) and it is as good as ever with clean fruit combined with a deliciously luscious texture. We purloin a couple of half bottles before heading back to Wadonga for Ruby’s mislaid fleece. Luckily it’s much quicker on the freeway and we only waste about an hour. We have probably spent more in petrol than the cost of a new fleece but that’s not really the point...